When I was a kid growing up in the Central Valley, Top Ramen
was about as Japanese as one could get. For those of you who may have had
a more richly cultured childhood, Top
Ramen is just another brand of one of those packaged soups that come as a brick of dry noodles with a foil-wrapped package of concentrated "Oriental" (gah!) flavors that you drop
in boiling water and consume three minutes later. It contains about two times the amount of sodium that
an adult needs in a day, but the health risks are far surpassed by it's deliciousness when one is hungover and the fact that you can buy four of them for a dollar. When I slurped them down on a near daily basis in the summers as a child, and then again as a cash-strapped adult, it didn't feel as if I was being transported to an exotic foreign land. It felt like I was eating salty soup.
Our trip to Tokyo was highly anticipated. (And not just because I'd finally get to sample some real ramen.) Our first visit to Japan was scheduled for early March 2011, but a few days before we were to depart for Tokyo, the big earthquake and subsequent tsunami that wiped out several Northeastern towns in Japan hit. We watched the images on TV of that horrific tidal wave and days later, heard the stories unfold about the staggering loss of life. Obviously, this wasn't the time for us to visit. Even though Tokyo was mostly unscathed, it just didn't feel right to be tourists in a city that had been touched so recently by such an awful tragedy.
On the back side of Harajuku is Omotesando, another shopping mecca, however this one is more catered to the Harajuku teen's older, more sophisticated sister. Christian loves it. High end clothing and gift shops abound and one thing is boldly clear: Japanese people are extremely fashion and trend forward. Such. Cool. Stuff. Not only does everything seem just a little more hip in Tokyo, attention to detail is everywhere. When you happen upon what you think might be the coolest thing ever and you buy it, you are surprised by how impeccably they wrap your item. Boring bags are for dummys. The tiny pocket calendar I purchased was then painstakingly wrapped in gold cellophane, and tied with a ribbon and a tiny plastic pig charm.
This attention to detail and innate courteousness can be witnessed in all areas of daily life. Having been warned about not shutting my own door when I exit a cab, I skipped over getting chided for doing so. Instead, I slip out of each cab and watch the driver pull a lever that makes the door shut on it's own. Japanese drivers have figured out a way to be chivalrous without ever leaving the driver's seat. And one can hardly complain about the plumbing here. Toilet seats are a preheated, toasty warm. A menu of warm jets of varying intensities, direction and temperature awaits should I choose to press one of the many buttons. (I am afraid to do so.) In public spaces, nobody seems to speak above a whisper. In this enormous and sprawling metropolitan city that can easily rival New York City in culture, food, and even shopping, you would be hard pressed to find anyone laying on their horn or flipping a bird. It is a startling (but warming) revelation, that even in a bustling city, people can manage to be respectful.
Mexican in Tokyo? If it exists we will find it and find it we did. Twice. We happened upon La Casita near the Daikanyama station in Shibuya during a day of meandering. Sad we found it after having just eaten, we went up and enjoyed a few margaritas and some surprisingly delicious chips and salsa.
Since we were planning to meet up with a friend who had moved to Tokyo from San Francisco that evening, we decided we'd have him join us there. Maurice is a lovely and gracious guy and we were delighted to see a familiar face, and even more delighted that he was willing to meet us for Mexican in Japan. Since our first trip to Tokyo in August, we've managed to see Maurice several more times as well as another dear friend, Kevin, who was there on business. When you decide to leave everything and everyone you know and move across the globe, being afforded the opportunity to sit with people you care about can make a regular day seem extraordinary. We're so grateful we got to share a few moments of our adventure with a couple of people we love.
So far in our travels Tokyo has been one of my favorite places to visit. Not only is Tokyo's shopping fantastic, the food delectable, and the city as electric and modern as it is eclectic and ancient, it's people are the real draw. Common courteousness takes on a whole new meaning in Japan. It's not something you shout at someone when they step around you and steal your taxi, or something you mutter to yourself as you narrowly miss stepping on a pile of human feces (this has happened more times than you probably want to know). In Japan, common courtesy is what it sounds like. People respect others as they respect themselves. In a city where almost nobody speaks your language, and where at 5'10" you tower over most, I have never felt more welcome or at ease.
Oh, and about that ramen? That sad brick of noodle matter that you can buy in cellophane for a quarter? Never again. Our last supper in Tokyo was the real stuff. Before we landed in Tokyo, I read an entire book about it's origin, the painstaking process of how it's lovingly put together by blending just the right amount of fish, pork, and chicken stock, and how each bowl and it's toppings vary from town to town. Forget the nice people, I'd go back to Tokyo just for this bowl. It's that good.
For more pictures from our trip, head over here.
 |
| "Ramen" made from a brick of dried stuff, mixed with more dried stuff. |
Our trip to Tokyo was highly anticipated. (And not just because I'd finally get to sample some real ramen.) Our first visit to Japan was scheduled for early March 2011, but a few days before we were to depart for Tokyo, the big earthquake and subsequent tsunami that wiped out several Northeastern towns in Japan hit. We watched the images on TV of that horrific tidal wave and days later, heard the stories unfold about the staggering loss of life. Obviously, this wasn't the time for us to visit. Even though Tokyo was mostly unscathed, it just didn't feel right to be tourists in a city that had been touched so recently by such an awful tragedy.
We finally made it to Tokyo in August 2011. When I tried to envision what we'd find there, my thoughts turned to various scenes from "Lost in Translation", odd items available for purchase from vending machines, extremely bustling and neon-ified city streets that would make Times Square look like a residential street in Missouri, girls made up like dolls in brightly colored clothes and pigtails holding stuffed animals, and oddly, tiny dogs wearing shoes. So yes, needless to say, I was excited.
We spent our first day in Tokyo roaming on foot and ended up at the Meiji Shrine in Shibuya. At this point in our travels in Asia we have seen quite a few shrines. And temples. And Buddha's. And statues. I'm happy to report that the Meiji Shrine is not just another shrine. It is located within 175 lush acres of evergreen forest. You can walk for hours and each turn you take will lead you to another spectacular landscape. Coi fish, bansai gardens, wishing wells, prayer walls, and on our visit, several live performances starring the cutest kids ever. It was beautiful and calming, even in the searing heat and suffocating humidity. And holy moly, is it ever so hot and sticky in Japan in the summer.
Next, we headed over to Harajuku. In stark contrast to the serenity of the Meiji Shrine, things in cartoonland get weird. Harajuku is, to put it simply, a shopping district where young kids, mostly girls, hang out and mingle. It just so happens that these young people share an affinity for dress-up. Really loud and colorful dress up. It's pretty awesome to take in. There are quirky shops filled with quirky people, all of them shouting something to passers by that sounds like "Ta-tok-y-moss, Ta-tok-y-moss". I have no idea what that means, but I assume it's "Come in and buy something...look at me....I am delightful!". It's frenetic and chaotic and there's something about the atmosphere and the precious, neon-decked shopgirls that makes you want to purchase the socks that look like animals or rainbow hairclips or animal masks that most of the stores offer. It's extreme concentrated wackiness and I love every last adorable part of it.
On the back side of Harajuku is Omotesando, another shopping mecca, however this one is more catered to the Harajuku teen's older, more sophisticated sister. Christian loves it. High end clothing and gift shops abound and one thing is boldly clear: Japanese people are extremely fashion and trend forward. Such. Cool. Stuff. Not only does everything seem just a little more hip in Tokyo, attention to detail is everywhere. When you happen upon what you think might be the coolest thing ever and you buy it, you are surprised by how impeccably they wrap your item. Boring bags are for dummys. The tiny pocket calendar I purchased was then painstakingly wrapped in gold cellophane, and tied with a ribbon and a tiny plastic pig charm.
This attention to detail and innate courteousness can be witnessed in all areas of daily life. Having been warned about not shutting my own door when I exit a cab, I skipped over getting chided for doing so. Instead, I slip out of each cab and watch the driver pull a lever that makes the door shut on it's own. Japanese drivers have figured out a way to be chivalrous without ever leaving the driver's seat. And one can hardly complain about the plumbing here. Toilet seats are a preheated, toasty warm. A menu of warm jets of varying intensities, direction and temperature awaits should I choose to press one of the many buttons. (I am afraid to do so.) In public spaces, nobody seems to speak above a whisper. In this enormous and sprawling metropolitan city that can easily rival New York City in culture, food, and even shopping, you would be hard pressed to find anyone laying on their horn or flipping a bird. It is a startling (but warming) revelation, that even in a bustling city, people can manage to be respectful.
Tokyo is HUGE. Over the next couple days, we weave in and out of all the little shops and neighborhoods and in typical Conway fashion, get hungry then frazzled by the vast array of food and completely indecipherable menus, and then hungry turns to h-angry. It happens almost every trip and this is typically when we seek out the nearest Outback Steakhouse, Shakey's Pizza, or in this case a tiny little pasta shop. Italian in Tokyo? Sure, why not?
Mexican in Tokyo? If it exists we will find it and find it we did. Twice. We happened upon La Casita near the Daikanyama station in Shibuya during a day of meandering. Sad we found it after having just eaten, we went up and enjoyed a few margaritas and some surprisingly delicious chips and salsa.
 |
| Maurice! |
So far in our travels Tokyo has been one of my favorite places to visit. Not only is Tokyo's shopping fantastic, the food delectable, and the city as electric and modern as it is eclectic and ancient, it's people are the real draw. Common courteousness takes on a whole new meaning in Japan. It's not something you shout at someone when they step around you and steal your taxi, or something you mutter to yourself as you narrowly miss stepping on a pile of human feces (this has happened more times than you probably want to know). In Japan, common courtesy is what it sounds like. People respect others as they respect themselves. In a city where almost nobody speaks your language, and where at 5'10" you tower over most, I have never felt more welcome or at ease.
Oh, and about that ramen? That sad brick of noodle matter that you can buy in cellophane for a quarter? Never again. Our last supper in Tokyo was the real stuff. Before we landed in Tokyo, I read an entire book about it's origin, the painstaking process of how it's lovingly put together by blending just the right amount of fish, pork, and chicken stock, and how each bowl and it's toppings vary from town to town. Forget the nice people, I'd go back to Tokyo just for this bowl. It's that good.
For more pictures from our trip, head over here.
